24 January 2025

6 min read

Tradition to Transition: Ethnobotanical insights into changing enset farming systems in Ethiopia

Indigenous and local farming systems have acted as safe havens for important crop diversity – but is this under threat and what might this mean for these systems in the future? Work into enset offers some insights.

Philippa Ryan

By Matthew Turk , Amesias Alemu , Asaye Asfaw , Alemseged Beldados , Dorian Fuller , Ermias Lulekal and Dr Philippa Ryan

Women preparing enset crop for use

Crop diversity enhances resilience to climate change, pests, and diseases, as well as being of cultural value. However, despite this diversity persisting historically in many rural food systems, under the stewardship of local communities, over the last century, we have witnessed crop diversity decline dramatically. 

In South-West Ethiopia, Kew, Addis Ababa University, and partners are tracking loss of diversity in enset – the traditional crop in this region – through ethnobotanical approaches. But what do we actually mean when we talk about ethnobotany?

A landscape is filled with enset plants and a couple of large trees
Enset farms in the Dawro region of Ethiopia. Philippa Ryan © RBG Kew

What do we mean when we talk about ethnobotany? 

Ethnobotany aims to explore the fascinating, intricate, and dynamic relationships that we as humans have with plants, combining elements of botany and social sciences to help us better understand how different cultures use, manage, and perceive plants. Crop plants in particular play a central role in societies all over the world.

Imagine this: an indigenous farmer, living 5000 metres above sea level in Potato Park in the Peruvian Andes, selects and plants specific varieties of potato that thrive in high altitudes and resist pests and diseases.

Or this: farmers in Djebba El Olia build hanging orchard-gardens on the harsh and arid slopes of Jbel el Gorrâa Mountain in Tunisia, turning steep cliffs and caverns into fertile and productive farming land and enabling the growth of plants like figs that can make over 70% of their household income.

Or this: a Bangladeshi farmer adapts to monsoon season by constructing a traditional floating garden on top of a dense mat of buoyant weeds, so that when their fields are submerged, the farmer can continue to grow plants like okra, spinach, and squash.

A person holds two tuber crops
A farmer in Potato Park (Peruvian Andes) shows two varieties of potato © Instituto Nacional de Innovación Agraria, Ministerio de Desarrollo Agrario y Riego Perú
A man in a canoe tends to floating crop
A traditional Bangledeshi floating garden © Badal Sarker, Department of Agricultural Extension, Bangladesh

Ethnobotanical research plays a vital role in preserving crop diversity by studying, promoting, and empowering rural food systems where diversity persists, alongside associated knowledge and practices. By supporting crop diversity – the cornerstone of resilient local and global farming systems – we can better ensure a reliable and equitable future food supply.

Enset in Ethiopia

Currently, much of the ethnobotanical work on agricultural systems carried out by Kew and its partners focuses on the fascinating, diverse, and climate-resilient banana-relative enset (Ensete ventricosum) in the only place it is believed to have ever been domesticated – the highlands in the south-west of Ethiopia. 

Enset is an important crop plant to study as it supports food security for one of the densest populations in Sub-Saharan Africa, acting as a vital source of nutrition for over 20 million people across Ethiopia.

Enset plants in a farm
Enset, James Borrell © RBG Kew

As well as being an important source of food, enset also plays an indispensable role within the diverse cultures found within these regions. This encompasses traditional practices of cultivation, processing, use, and consumption, along with the tools required.

Enset serves as a cornerstone of social ritual and community practice, with certain varieties having important roles in traditional religion, spirituality, construction and medicine. It is considered by local people as a ‘tree against hunger’ or ‘tree of life’, as so many facets of daily life rely upon it.

A man works in an enset farm
A man digs up an enset plant for relocation in Gurage, Ethiopia. Philippa Ryan © RBG Kew
A palette knife like tool
A knife used in the Basketo region of Ethiopia for enset processing. These enset knives are known locally as ‘mashe’. Philippa Ryan © RBG Kew

Kew and its partners in Addis Ababa University, Ethiopia, have carried out group interviews with over 400 farmers across 20 different cultural regions of South-West Ethiopia. The findings from these interviews reveal how recent agricultural and cultural changes have altered patterns of enset variety diversity, distribution and use. 

One of the cultural regions explored as part of this work is Basketo. Basketo is a relatively small, yet highly ecologically diverse district organised around the traditional homelands of the Basketo ethnic group in the south-west of Ethiopia. In Basketo, somewhere between 80 and 120 distinct varieties of enset are grown in intricately designed homegarden systems known as aal-oos-gad.

A map of the Basketo region of Ethiopia
Basketo is in South-West Ethiopia. Ethnobotanical interviews were carried out in the villages of Usacha, Tembela, Danqela, Daqesa, Dhaqesa, and Bangiza. Matthew Turk © RBG Kew

These aal-oos-gad act as important social and cultural spaces where traditional agricultural knowledge is preserved and disseminated and important social events including weddings, funerals and religious rituals take place. Traditional religion and nature are so inextricably linked in Basketo, that the same word is used to describe the deity and the spirits of the ancestors, as well as forests and trees.

An Ethiopian homegarden and crop landscape
A homegarden in Hadiya, Ethiopia Philippa Ryan © RBG Kew Enset, and taro intercropped in a Basketo aal-oos-gad. © Asaye Asfaw and Ermias Lulukel, Addis Ababa University

Shifting Agricultural Priorities

Whilst aal-oos-gad systems in Basketo have historically centred on enset, this study reveals significant recent changes in cultivation. 

60% of farmers reported that the area of farmland they dedicated to enset cultivation had shrunk within the last few decades, with one farmer, a 70-year-old man from northern Basketo, saying that the land on his farm used to grow enset had halved within the last 20 years alone. This suggests agricultural priorities in Basketo may be shifting away from the traditional enset crop towards other crops, with introduced species like maize and potato being grown more and more frequently.

In these interviews, farmers also consistently describe a sharp decline in household consumption of enset over the last 30 years. Enset is mostly grown to produce kocho, a starchy and fermented pulp made from the grated and pounded pseudostem (trunk) and underground corm of the plant, which is a staple of Ethiopian cuisine. Farmers in Basketo reported that as recently as 20 years ago, they consumed kocho three times a day, every day. Nowadays, demand for kocho has sharply declined, with some households eating it as rarely as once a week.

A woman harvests material from an enset plant
A woman grates enset pseudostem to produce kocho in Silte, Ethiopia. Philippa Ryan © RBG Kew

Loss of dedicated agricultural land, decreased household consumption of enset, and reported increases in enset disease prevalence have been, predictably, accompanied by a decline in enset varieties in Basketo. 

Over the last 30 years, every single one of the enset varieties discussed in interviews was reported to have decreased in abundance, with over half being reported to have gone from ‘very abundant’ to ‘very scarce’ within the local landscape.

A graph shows the decline in crop abundance among enset varieties in Basketo, Ethiopia
Change over time of perceived variety abundance in Basketo. Change in individual varieties is represented by coloured lines. Average change in abundance is represented by the thick black line. Matthew Turk © RBG Kew

Ethnobotanical data gathered by the field team in Ethiopia suggests that these recent changes seen in Basketo reflect broader trends. Under the joint pressures of increasing urbanisation and globalisation, traditional patterns of enset cultivation and consumption – intrinsic to Ethiopian culture – may be being increasingly displaced by modernised agricultural practices. 

This shift favours the production of high-yielding commercial crops that provide better economic returns in urban markets. The cost of this transition, however, may be high. The loss of important enset diversity means this important ‘tree of life’ and staple crop could become increasingly vulnerable in the future.

Looking into drivers of change in Ethiopian farming practices can help provide insights into how traditional food crops can be conserved as part of a changing agricultural landscape, helping to support the stability, sovereignty and resilience of traditional food systems into the future.

Farmers examine an enormous plant from its base, they are dwarfed by massive leaves, each as tall as a human

View the full project behind this story

Evolutionary Dynamics of Vegetative Agriculture in the Ethiopian Highlands

Evolutionary Dynamics of Vegetative Agriculture in the Ethiopian Highlands’ is an interdisciplinary project that integrates ethnobotany, archaeology, and genetics to study Indigenous agrobiodiversity, food security, and climate change resilience in the highlands of Ethiopia. The project is funded by the Natural Environment Research Council (NERC): led by Dorian Fuller (The UCL Institute of Archaeology), in collaboration with Ermias Lulekal and Alemseged Beldados (Addis Ababa University), Philippa Ryan, James Borrell and Paul Wilkin (Kew), and partners from Stony Brook University, University of Florida, Free University of Brussels, and Goethe University of Frankfurt. Thanks too to the rest of the project team Amesias Asaye (AAU), Asaye Asfaw (Debre Berhan University) Cristina Castillo (UCL), Harriet Hunt (Kew). 

The project builds on other recent and current projects at Kew on enset diversity, genomics and conservation. 

Find out more about: 

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